La Cuesta Encantada

In 1919, William Randolph Hearst began an ambitious construction project on the hilltop of the Santa Lucia Range. As Hearst wrote to architect Julia Morgan that year, "Miss Morgan, we are tired of camping out in the open at the ranch in San Simeon and I would like to build a little something."

Over the course of the next 28 years, what started as a plan to put a small bungalow on Hearst's boyhood campsite evolved into an estate of 165 rooms and 127 acres of gardens, pools, and the world's largest private zoo. Hearst Castle, formally named La Cuesta Encantada ("The Enchanted Hill"), is now operated by the California State Park Service and open to the public. Stop at the visitor's center and then hop on the bus to take the winding road up to the castle. Bonus: Alex Trebek narrates the route to the castle. Double bonus: excellent time for a group selfie to pass the time.

Family Selfie

Back to the tour: admittedly, it's a little weird to be touring some rich guy's playland (what Orson Welle's would thinly veil as "Xanadu" in Citizen Kane). Hearst's hand in the project is so apparent, from the 17th century ceilings imported from Spain to the size of the pepper pots in the garden, that the tour is strangely voyeuristic.

On the other hand, this labor of love is truly remarkable. The design and construction of the estate -- financed by the Hearst wealth from mining and media -- went straight through the Depression with barely a flutter. Julia Morgan's invoice for the cost of construction from 1919 to1942 was a stunning $4,717,000. She ran the entire job -- from managing the carpenters, plasterers and stonecasters to purchasing Spanish antiquities, Icelandic moss and reindeer for Hearst. Between 1919 and 1939 when her health began to fail, Morgan made 558 weekend trips by train from San Francisco to San Simeon.

Some people collect stamps. Hearst collected antique European ceilings. When you get over the gulf in lifestyle that stands between you and the media magnate, admire the beautiful ceilings in each of the rooms which range from gilded plaster to Spanish fired tiles.

There are a number of tours to choose from and our State Parks guide was great with a lovely ability to tell sympathetic stories about the eccentric Hearst and explain the details of the construction. Whatever tour you pick, don't miss the pools. Ed knows his pools. He can find an Olympic-size pool in any city where he stays for more than 48 hours. So, the Hearst pools were a highlight.

The outdoor Neptune pool (named for the 17th century marble statue that overlooks the marble basin) holds 345,000 gallons and is lined with black and white Vermont marble. Because it leaks 5,000 gallons a day, it is currently being renovated. The indoor Roman pool is modeled after a Roman bath and, in case you didn't get that point, it is surrounded by eight Roman gods, goddesses and heroes. Subtle. Camille Solon, the English muralist and ceramist, designed the mosaic which covers walls, floor, ceiling and pool in one-inch smalti glass and fused gold tiles.

What we would give for a quick dip! But, alas, onward. More photos of the lovely La Cuesta Encantada here. Next stop: Pismo Beach.